Leh - Pangong Tso - Leh
Distance Covered: 340 Kms
Route taken: Leh - Karu - ChangLa-Tangste-Pangong Tso-Tangste-Chang La-Karu-Leh
After having an amazing evening with the new group in Leh we had a sumptuous dinner and started discussing on the next days plan. All of had different opinions about visiting different places. Some of us wanted to cross Khardung La pass and go ahead to Nubra valley and some wanted to do a day trip to Pangon Tso. We had very few days in hand to do both so it was finally decided that tomorrow it will be a day trip to Pangong Tso and the next day to Khardung La.
It was decided that we would start at 8AM and be back by 6 PM the same day. All were dead tired but it was almost 12 AM when we hit the bed. I faced difficulty sleeping at night and woke up a few times feeling breathless. It was obvious that lack of oxygen in air was making me pant even while sleeping. Nonetheless, I was fresh when I woke up in the morning. All of us were ready by 7:30 and we headed out in batches to re-fuel our bikes. It was a long wait at the Leh filling station on the airport road and we lost almost 30 mins there. I was a bit nervous whether a full tank would be enough for this ride of about 320 kms.
We moved on further and reached Karu in no time. I again tanked up my bike here and now I was sure that I would be able to complete the ride without extra fuel. Here we had a heavy breakfast of paranthas and moved ahead. I was not carrying my saddle bag today as we had planned to reach back Leh by evening so it was decided that I would be riding with a pillion as the CBZ would not be able to carry the extra load. The road forks at Karu, the left one taking you to Pangong Tso and the right one going to Manali. We took the left one and submitted our permits at the checkpost.
The weather was pleasant though it was getting cloudy. This meant it would either snow at Chang La or be extremely cold up there. After riding a few kms we reached Shakti and from here starts the arduous climb of Chang La. The initial 20 kms had nicely laid roads and we reached Zingral in an hours time. The toughest part of the ride is the last 5 kms on either side of Chang La pass. Here you come to know why it is rightly called the Mighty Chang La. My bike was facing difficulty climbing this section due to the lack of oxygen and it was misfiring at a few places. It was necessary to maintain momentum even while crossing the broken sections. If you slow down or stop it was getting tough to build the momentum again to climb the steep inclines. After huffing and puffing we reached the Chang La top by 11.30 AM.
Then began the descend of Chang La. Again the roads were horrible to say the least alongwith a few water crossings. The other side of Chang La has a charm of its own. Though the land was barren there were a few patches along the river where you will see marshlands. If lucky one can sport Marmots running across.
We were slightly off schedule as it was already 1 PM when we reached Tangste. After crossing Tangste, I came across the most difficult section to ride on. The fine sand was all over the road and it was getting difficult to maintain momentum with all that sand on the road. I almost lost balance at a few places but was saved from a fall with me balancing at the last moment.
After crossing this whole section we reached the Pagal Nala. This used to be most difficult water crossing but now a bridge has been built over it. Within a few kms you get the first view of the beautiful Pangong Tso. After driving a few more kms we reached Lukung(Pangong Tso). It was a heavenly experience sitting on the shores of the lake just lost in your thought. We rested at this place for almost an hour before it started to drizzle. We then decided that it was time to head back to Leh.
Had maggi at "Rancho's Hotel" :) and were all set to move at 3 PM with a heavy heart. Once should plan for an overnight stay at Pangong to enjoy the place.
Everyone was dead tired from the morning ride so we rested at a few places. We also had to cross Chang La before nightfall as temperatures plummet from late evening.
We decided we will not have pitstops anymore and will only stop after crossing the Chang La Top. We started the ascend at about 4 PM but now we had to face a different situation. Snow was melting heavily from the higher peaks and all the water crossing were getting difficult.
We were sure that we'll be able to make it to the top by 5:30 PM. But, there was something else in store for us.
Chakshu who was way ahead of the whole group was not feeling well so he stopped about 10 kms before the top to take some rest. So both these guys laid down on the grass below and were waiting for the others to join. But it seems he was in no condition to drive so he got a lift from an oncoming pickup truck and headed to the top hoping that the pillion would drive to the top with the bike once all of us re-grouped. A wise decision. Once all of us re-grouped we came to know that Chakshu had taken the bike keys along as well :(. The ride to the top was a good 30 mins and had many water crossings. So we planned to go ahead and send the keys with any vehicle which will come from the other side. Driving to the top was a nightmare and the dreaded 5 kms stretch from the Chang La top now totally had water flowing over it. When we reached the top, we saw him sipping hot tea at the army canteen unaware of the mess he has put all of us in. We stayed there for 15 mins with no signs of vehicle coming from the other side. The other plan of going back down on bikes was rejected by all as who will drive through that road again. Fortunately, after a few mins a truck came from the other side and we handed over the keys to him and asked him to give it to the guy who was waiting below.
The pass was already getting cold and we were advised time and again by the army folks to head down. As I had faced problem in the morning I was advised to move ahead and the rest of the team would follow once the other guy reached the top. Also, I was running low on fuel and the fuel indicator was continuously blinking.
I started descending slowly as the next 5kms was going to be tough. After that it was smooth sailing till Shakti and I reached the army checkpost by 7 PM.
The other folks reached after 45 mins. All of us were dead tired and we still had about 35kms to reach back to Leh. We started back for Leh and it was complete ride in the dark.
Everyone freshened up and had a good dinner which was already prepared by the guest house cook. The next day we had planned for Khardung La day trip. It is just 40kms from Leh so we decided to start a little late.
Total Kms driven: 340
Fuel filled at : Leh, Karu
Distance Covered: 340 Kms
Route taken: Leh - Karu - ChangLa-Tangste-Pangong Tso-Tangste-Chang La-Karu-Leh
After having an amazing evening with the new group in Leh we had a sumptuous dinner and started discussing on the next days plan. All of had different opinions about visiting different places. Some of us wanted to cross Khardung La pass and go ahead to Nubra valley and some wanted to do a day trip to Pangon Tso. We had very few days in hand to do both so it was finally decided that tomorrow it will be a day trip to Pangong Tso and the next day to Khardung La.
It was decided that we would start at 8AM and be back by 6 PM the same day. All were dead tired but it was almost 12 AM when we hit the bed. I faced difficulty sleeping at night and woke up a few times feeling breathless. It was obvious that lack of oxygen in air was making me pant even while sleeping. Nonetheless, I was fresh when I woke up in the morning. All of us were ready by 7:30 and we headed out in batches to re-fuel our bikes. It was a long wait at the Leh filling station on the airport road and we lost almost 30 mins there. I was a bit nervous whether a full tank would be enough for this ride of about 320 kms.
 |
| On the way to Karu |
We moved on further and reached Karu in no time. I again tanked up my bike here and now I was sure that I would be able to complete the ride without extra fuel. Here we had a heavy breakfast of paranthas and moved ahead. I was not carrying my saddle bag today as we had planned to reach back Leh by evening so it was decided that I would be riding with a pillion as the CBZ would not be able to carry the extra load. The road forks at Karu, the left one taking you to Pangong Tso and the right one going to Manali. We took the left one and submitted our permits at the checkpost.
The weather was pleasant though it was getting cloudy. This meant it would either snow at Chang La or be extremely cold up there. After riding a few kms we reached Shakti and from here starts the arduous climb of Chang La. The initial 20 kms had nicely laid roads and we reached Zingral in an hours time. The toughest part of the ride is the last 5 kms on either side of Chang La pass. Here you come to know why it is rightly called the Mighty Chang La. My bike was facing difficulty climbing this section due to the lack of oxygen and it was misfiring at a few places. It was necessary to maintain momentum even while crossing the broken sections. If you slow down or stop it was getting tough to build the momentum again to climb the steep inclines. After huffing and puffing we reached the Chang La top by 11.30 AM.
 |
| The famous Chang LA Z |
 |
| Chang La Top |
 |
| It is too bright at the top. It was difficult to see without the glares |
Then began the descend of Chang La. Again the roads were horrible to say the least alongwith a few water crossings. The other side of Chang La has a charm of its own. Though the land was barren there were a few patches along the river where you will see marshlands. If lucky one can sport Marmots running across.
 |
| You can see Marmots running around here. Was not able to capture them though :(. |
We were slightly off schedule as it was already 1 PM when we reached Tangste. After crossing Tangste, I came across the most difficult section to ride on. The fine sand was all over the road and it was getting difficult to maintain momentum with all that sand on the road. I almost lost balance at a few places but was saved from a fall with me balancing at the last moment.
After crossing this whole section we reached the Pagal Nala. This used to be most difficult water crossing but now a bridge has been built over it. Within a few kms you get the first view of the beautiful Pangong Tso. After driving a few more kms we reached Lukung(Pangong Tso). It was a heavenly experience sitting on the shores of the lake just lost in your thought. We rested at this place for almost an hour before it started to drizzle. We then decided that it was time to head back to Leh.
Had maggi at "Rancho's Hotel" :) and were all set to move at 3 PM with a heavy heart. Once should plan for an overnight stay at Pangong to enjoy the place.
 |
| Pangong Tso |
 |
| Color of water changes. |
Everyone was dead tired from the morning ride so we rested at a few places. We also had to cross Chang La before nightfall as temperatures plummet from late evening.
We decided we will not have pitstops anymore and will only stop after crossing the Chang La Top. We started the ascend at about 4 PM but now we had to face a different situation. Snow was melting heavily from the higher peaks and all the water crossing were getting difficult.
 |
| PitStop |
 |
| Tangste from Top. The road we left behind |
We were sure that we'll be able to make it to the top by 5:30 PM. But, there was something else in store for us.
Chakshu who was way ahead of the whole group was not feeling well so he stopped about 10 kms before the top to take some rest. So both these guys laid down on the grass below and were waiting for the others to join. But it seems he was in no condition to drive so he got a lift from an oncoming pickup truck and headed to the top hoping that the pillion would drive to the top with the bike once all of us re-grouped. A wise decision. Once all of us re-grouped we came to know that Chakshu had taken the bike keys along as well :(. The ride to the top was a good 30 mins and had many water crossings. So we planned to go ahead and send the keys with any vehicle which will come from the other side. Driving to the top was a nightmare and the dreaded 5 kms stretch from the Chang La top now totally had water flowing over it. When we reached the top, we saw him sipping hot tea at the army canteen unaware of the mess he has put all of us in. We stayed there for 15 mins with no signs of vehicle coming from the other side. The other plan of going back down on bikes was rejected by all as who will drive through that road again. Fortunately, after a few mins a truck came from the other side and we handed over the keys to him and asked him to give it to the guy who was waiting below.
The pass was already getting cold and we were advised time and again by the army folks to head down. As I had faced problem in the morning I was advised to move ahead and the rest of the team would follow once the other guy reached the top. Also, I was running low on fuel and the fuel indicator was continuously blinking.
I started descending slowly as the next 5kms was going to be tough. After that it was smooth sailing till Shakti and I reached the army checkpost by 7 PM.
The other folks reached after 45 mins. All of us were dead tired and we still had about 35kms to reach back to Leh. We started back for Leh and it was complete ride in the dark.
Everyone freshened up and had a good dinner which was already prepared by the guest house cook. The next day we had planned for Khardung La day trip. It is just 40kms from Leh so we decided to start a little late.
Total Kms driven: 340
Fuel filled at : Leh, Karu
